A sawbuck pack saddle is two X-shaped crosses joined by two side boards, sitting on padding on the animal’s back: cut four pieces of hardwood about 40 cm long, 5 cm wide and 3 cm thick, cross them in pairs and bolt or peg each crossing, then join the crosses with two side boards about 50 cm long. The side boards must follow the ribs and a 5 cm gap above the spine must hold under load.
Part of Pack Animal Management
The traditional crossed-stick pack saddle: its cutting list, assembly, fit points and failure modes.
Four Sticks And Two Boards, But The Fit Is The Hard Part
The sawbuck is simple to cut and assemble. What decides whether it works is where the X’s sit on the animal and whether the side boards sit on the ribs rather than the spine. Most failures are fit failures, not breakages.
What You Need
- Four hardwood pieces — each about 40 cm long, 5 cm wide, 3 cm thick.
- Two side boards — each about 50 cm long. The source article does not give their width or thickness; choose them to bear on the ribs without pressing on the spine.
- Bolts or pegs — for the crossings.
- Padding — a folded wool blanket, minimum 4 layers; see Padding & Fitting.
- A girth or cinch and breeching — to hold and steady the saddle. The source does not give these dimensions.
- Woodworking tools — see Woodworking.
Method: Build And Fit
Step 1: Cut the four pieces. Each about 40 cm x 5 cm x 3 cm, from hardwood.
Step 2: Make the X’s. Cross the pieces in pairs and bolt or peg each crossing. You now have two X’s.
Step 3: Join them. Connect the two crosses with two side boards (bars), each about 50 cm long, running along the animal’s sides.
Step 4: Position on the animal. The X crosses sit at the front and rear of the saddle, and loads hang from the arms of the X. The front X sits behind the shoulder blade and the rear X ahead of the hip.
Step 5: Check the fit. The side boards must follow the curve of the ribs and not press on the spine. A gap of at least 5 cm between the saddle and the spine must be maintained at all times, even under load.
Step 6: Load and recheck. Put the real load on, stand the animal, and pass a 5 cm gauge under the saddle at the spine. Recheck after the first hour of walking, when padding compresses.
Failure Modes
| Failure | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| Sore on the spine or withers | Gap closed under load | Raise the saddle or add padding on the sides; reduce load |
| Saddle rotates | Unbalanced load or loose girth | Balance the sides; see Weight Distribution Rules |
| Saddle rides forward onto the withers | Front X too far forward | Reposition behind the shoulder blade |
| Crossing loosens | Pegs or bolts working loose | Check at each stop; retighten |
| Side board presses a rib | Board straight where the ribs curve | Reshape or pad |
Worked Example
Material for one saddle from the cutting list:
- X pieces: 4 x 40 cm = 160 cm of 5 x 3 cm stock.
- Side boards: 2 x 50 cm = 100 cm (section not given).
- Total length of stock: 160 + 100 = 260 cm.
- Volume of the X pieces: 4 x (40 x 5 x 3) = 4 x 600 = 2,400 cm^3 = 2.4 litres of hardwood.
One 3 m board of suitable section covers the cutting list with 40 cm to spare if the side boards are cut from the same section (260 cm of 300 cm).
Common Mistakes
- Measuring the gap unloaded — it shrinks under load.
- Straight side boards on curved ribs — they press at the edges.
- Dimensions copied without fitting — 40 cm and 50 cm are the source’s figures; size to the animal.
- Loads hung high — they raise the centre of gravity and sway.
Safety
Sharp edges, pinched fingers and a loaded animal
Round every edge of the frame, since splinters and corners cut the animal and the handler. Keep fingers out of the crossings while the animal moves. Never stand between a loaded animal and a wall, and do not cinch while standing behind the animal’s hind legs.
What’s Next
- Learn next: Padding & Fitting — the layer that protects the back
- Combine with: Hitches & Lashing — tying the load to the saddle