Paddle a canoe with a forward stroke that enters at the bow end of your reach, pulls straight back to the hip and exits, switching sides every 3-4 strokes, or with a J-stroke, twisting the blade outward at the end of the stroke as a rudder correction so you can stay on one side; use a draw stroke to pull the canoe sideways, and kneel on the bottom, because a lower centre of gravity means less tipping. In a tandem canoe the weights must balance: a 75 kg bow paddler 1.0 m forward of the centre and a 60 kg stern paddler 1.0 m aft leave 15 kg·m of bow-heavy trim, which 20 kg of gear placed 0.75 m aft corrects.

Canoe paddling is the set of strokes and positions used to propel and steer a canoe or dugout with a single-bladed paddle.

A Canoe Has A Direction, So The Strokes Aim To Keep It

A canoe, unlike a coracle, has a bow and stern, and a stroke on one side turns it toward the other side. The carrier’s remedies are to change sides every few strokes or to use a J-stroke, in which the blade is twisted at the end of the stroke to act as a small rudder and cancel the turn. The forward stroke goes in at the bow end of your reach, pulls straight back to the hip, then leaves the water; the draw stroke pulls the paddle sideways toward the canoe to move the canoe toward the paddle.

Kneel on the bottom, not on a high seat. In a dugout the centre of gravity relative to the hull’s metacentre decides whether the canoe stays upright, and kneeling lowers it; see Shaping for Stability for the numbers, where a kneeling paddler in a half-round hull has a small positive margin and a standing one a negative one.

What You Need

  • A canoe or dugout, float-tested
  • A single-bladed paddle of a length that reaches the water from your kneeling position
  • A flotation device worn on the body
  • Gear lashed in so that it cannot slide
  • A second paddler for tandem, with an agreed set of calls

Method: Strokes And Trim

Step 1: Kneel with the knees apart against the hull, hips low, with the weight on the centreline.

Step 2: Forward stroke: enter, pull to the hip, exit; repeat on one side for 3-4 strokes, then switch.

Step 3: J-stroke: at the end of the stroke, twist the blade outward as a rudder correction, so you can keep paddling on one side.

Step 4: Draw stroke: plant the paddle out to the side and pull it toward the canoe.

Step 5: Tandem: the stern paddler steers with J-strokes and corrections, the bow paddler provides power and calls out hazards; both paddle on opposite sides and switch together.

Step 6: Trim the load (see below).

Worked Example: Trimming A Tandem Canoe

Bow paddler 75 kg at 1.0 m forward of the canoe’s centre, stern paddler 60 kg at 1.0 m aft. The moment about the centre is 75 × 1.0 − 60 × 1.0 = 15 kg·m toward the bow. To cancel it, put gear aft: a mass m at distance x aft satisfies m × x = 15, so 20 kg at 0.75 m (20 × 0.75 = 15), or 30 kg at 0.5 m. The canoe then sits level. A bow-heavy canoe digs its nose in a chop and steers poorly; a stern-heavy one swings its bow in a crosswind. The same arithmetic applies to any load; use kilograms and metres consistently, and a moment in kg·m is a weight moment (multiply by 9.81 for newton-metres).

Common Mistakes

  • Sitting on a high seat or standing — it raises the centre of gravity.
  • Paddling on one side without a correction — the canoe turns away.
  • Loose gear — it slides and upsets the trim.
  • Both paddlers on the same side — the canoe turns and heels.

Safety

Capsize, cold water and current

A canoe can overturn faster than the paddler can react. Wear flotation, stay near the shore, and if it capsizes in cold water hold the hull rather than swimming; see Paddling & Handling and Safety & Capsizing Recovery. Do not paddle toward weirs, low dams or fallen trees; see Current Patterns.

What’s Next