A cermet is a composite of hard ceramic particles, usually a carbide, held together by a tough metal binder, and it cuts steel at speeds and temperatures that ruin even high-speed steel. The ceramic supplies hardness and heat resistance and the metal supplies toughness, so more binder gives a tougher, softer tool and less binder a harder, more brittle one. Making them needs tungsten, fine powders and a controlled-atmosphere furnace, so the realistic route for a settlement is to salvage carbide tips and regrind them with silicon carbide.

Cermets are ceramic-metal composites in which hard carbide or nitride grains are bonded by a metal such as cobalt or nickel, used mainly for cutting-tool tips and wear parts.

Hardness And Toughness Come From Two Phases

Ceramics are hard but brittle and metals are tough but soft (see Advanced Ceramics). A cermet puts them side by side: hard grains do the cutting and a thin metal film between them stops cracks from running from grain to grain. The standard hard-metal tool is tungsten carbide grains in a cobalt binder, a material often called cemented carbide. It is sometimes kept separate from titanium-carbide cermets, but the principle is identical. The balance is set by the binder fraction, as in the Advanced Materials article’s reference to ceramic-metal composites for cutting tools.

Why It Beats High-Speed Steel

The Advanced Materials article describes high-speed steel as adding tungsten, chromium and vanadium and keeping its cutting ability at red heat, around 600 °C. Tool Steel covers the family. Hard-metal tips keep their hardness at far higher temperatures, which allows much faster cutting and the machining of hard steels. The cost is brittleness: a cermet tip chips under shock and interrupted cuts.

What A Settlement Can And Cannot Do

  • Cannot (yet): make cemented carbide. It needs tungsten carbide powder, fine cobalt powder, and sintering above the binder’s melting point in a protective atmosphere or vacuum. This article gives no process figures because none are sourced.
  • Can: recover carbide-tipped saw blades, drill bits, masonry bits and lathe inserts from salvage, and braze them onto holders.
  • Can: regrind them. Ordinary aluminium oxide wheels wear away on carbide, so use silicon carbide, the hard abrasive described in Abrasives. Light, wet passes avoid cracking.
  • Can: use the same idea in cruder form. A grinding wheel is hard grains in a vitrified bond, and clay-graphite crucibles are a ceramic composite, as in Crucibles.

Using A Salvaged Tip

  1. Mount it with a rigid, well-supported seat, because a carbide tip hates bending.
  2. Use positive support under the cutting edge and keep the tool short.
  3. Take steady cuts with no chatter or interrupted cutting.
  4. Avoid thermal shock: do not flood a red-hot tip with cold coolant. Start the coolant before the cut or not at all.
  5. Inspect the edge often for tiny chips.

Common Mistakes

  • Dropping or hammering the tool — it is brittle.
  • Grinding on an ordinary wheel — it wears the wheel and overheats the tip.
  • Using it for low-speed hand cutting — a carbide tip’s advantage appears at speed.

Carbide dust and chips

Grinding and sawing carbide produces fine cobalt-bearing dust that is harmful to breathe. Grind wet and wear a mask. Hard chips fly from a chipped edge, so wear eye protection. Brazing tips needs fluxes whose fumes are harmful, so ventilate.

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