A log drum is a section of seasoned hardwood hollowed to a wall of at least 3 cm, and different parts of the wall ring at different pitches according to their thickness and length. The tone of a vibrating wooden bar rises in proportion to its thickness and falls with the square of its length, so thinning a tongue lowers its note and shortening it raises it. Season the log before and after hollowing, seal the end grain, and burn out only with fire controls in place.

A hollowed trunk used as a struck instrument, how wall thickness sets its tones, and how to stop it cracking.

Wall Thickness Sets The Notes

The parent article recommends a log 30-60 cm in diameter and 40-60 cm tall, hollowed to walls at least 3 cm thick, and says walls of varying thickness give 2-3 distinct tones. That is consistent with how a wooden bar behaves. For a bar of uniform cross-section that is free to vibrate, standard beam theory gives a frequency that rises in proportion to its thickness and falls with the square of its length (the relation is f proportional to t divided by L squared, times a constant set by the wood’s stiffness and density). It is an idealisation for a straight bar and only a guide for a curved tongue cut in a log, but it points the right way for tuning.

Worked example, thinning a tongue. Suppose a tongue 30 mm thick and the same tongue after being worked down to 20 mm, with the length unchanged. The frequency ratio is 20 mm ÷ 30 mm = 0.667. In pitch terms that is 1200 × log₂(0.667) = −702 cents, about a fifth lower (a fifth is 702 cents, a ratio of 3:2). So a thinner tongue gives a lower note, and removing one-third of the thickness drops the note about a fifth. Doubling the length of an otherwise identical tongue divides the frequency by 2² = 4, which is two octaves lower.

Use this to plan: leave the walls thicker than needed, test, and thin only the tongue you want lower. You can lower a note by removing wood but you cannot put it back.

What You Need

  • A seasoned hardwood log 30-60 cm in diameter and 40-60 cm tall, the dimensions the parent article gives; for seasoning see Wood Seasoning
  • An axe, adze or gouge; see Hand Tool Making
  • Fire controls if burning out: water, sand, a watcher
  • Sealer for the end grain — beeswax or pitch; see Beeswax and Pitch and Waterproofing

Method: Hollow Without Splitting

Step 1: Choose a log without cracks or rot, and cut it square at both ends. A log with radial splits already in the end grain will open further.

Step 2: Seal both end faces at once with beeswax or pitch. Water leaves end grain much faster than it leaves the sides, and uneven drying is what splits logs.

Step 3: Mark the opening (a slit or a round mouth) on the top face and the wall you want to leave. Keep a margin: do not cut below 3 cm anywhere on the first pass.

Step 4: Hollow in stages. Use an adze or gouge, or char the interior and scrape the char off, the same logic used for a dugout; see Dugout Canoe, which sets a 3-5 cm wall for a boat. Take a layer, rest, check the wall by feel.

Step 5: Dry slowly in shade, out of wind and sun, for months, turning it occasionally. A hollowed trunk that dries too fast checks on the surface.

Step 6: Tune last, by thinning the tongues you want lower, as in the worked example.

Common Mistakes

  • Hollowing a green log and drying it fast. The wall shrinks across the grain and splits.
  • Making every wall the same thickness. You get one dull tone; the parent article’s 2-3 tones come from thickness variation.
  • Cutting the wall under 3 cm. The wall is the instrument and the structure; too thin and it cracks when struck.

Safety

Burning out is a fire hazard and heavy logs injure

Never burn out a log indoors or near stored wood; keep water and sand at hand and never leave the fire. See Fire Management. Logs of this size weigh tens of kilograms; roll or lever them, do not lift them alone. Sharp tools slip on round surfaces, so clamp the log.

What’s Next