Running rigging is the set of moving ropes that raise, trim and shape a small boat’s sail: the halyard hoists it, the sheet sets its angle to the wind, and the downhaul pulls the tack down and forward. A 4-part block tackle on the sheet turns a sail pull of about 382 N at force 5 into roughly 127 N at the hand, because real friction brings a nominal 4 to 1 advantage down to about 3 to 1, and the sheet must be held in the hand, never tied off, so that a gust can be spilled instantly.
Part of Small Sailboat Construction
Running rigging is every rope on a sailboat that moves while you sail, as opposed to the fixed shrouds and stays that hold the mast.
Three Ropes, Three Jobs
Halyard. It runs from the yard (or the head of the sail) through a block at the masthead and down to a cleat. It carries the weight of the yard and the tension that tightens the luff. A halyard that jams in its block cannot lower the sail in a squall, so the sheave must turn freely and the rope must be a diameter the block accepts.
Sheet. It attaches to the clew and runs aft through a block on the stern or quarter, ending in the helmsman’s hand. Easing it lets the sail swing out and spill wind; hauling it in brings the sail toward the centreline. In a gust, the sheet is the control that lets you survive; for this reason it is held, not cleated.
Downhaul or tack line. It holds the lower front corner (the tack) down and forward so the luff stays tight when the halyard is hauled.
What You Need
- Rope of three sizes, with the halyard’s and sheet’s breaking strength tested (see Rope Strength Testing)
- Blocks: wooden sheaves on a pin, or salvaged pulleys (see Block and Tackle)
- A cleat or belaying pin for the halyard and downhaul only
- Eye splices or knots that will not slip (see Essential Knots)
Method: Rig And Check
Step 1: Reeve the halyard. Pass it through the masthead block, tie one end to the yard or head, and run the other down to the cleat. Hoist the sail ashore to check it runs freely.
Step 2: Set the downhaul. Tie it to the tack and lead it to a fairlead near the mast base so you can tension the luff from the cockpit.
Step 3: Lead the sheet. Tie it to the clew, run it through a block on the quarter, and keep a tail long enough to reach the helmsman’s hand without a loop around the arm.
Step 4: Add a tackle if the pull is heavy. A sheet block with four rope segments between the two blocks gives a nominal 4 to 1 advantage; Block and Tackle gives about 3 to 1 in practice, once friction is counted.
Step 5: Coil and stow. Coil each rope so it runs out without kinks, and stow it clear of the mast step.
Worked Example: What The Hand Feels
Take the sail from Spritsail Rig: 5.6 m² at 38 km/h gives a total force of about 382 N. A sheet tension of the same order is a reasonable scale for the load (the true figure depends on the angle and rig, and gusts exceed the mean). With a 4-part tackle and an effective advantage of 3, the hand holds 382 ÷ 3 = 127 N, equivalent to the weight of 13 kg (127 ÷ 9.81). Without the tackle, the hand would hold 382 N, about 39 kg. A tackle also slows the release, since the rope must run through four sheaves, so one that is too stiff is more dangerous than none.
Common Mistakes
- Cleating the sheet — the sail cannot be spilled quickly in a gust.
- Too much friction in the blocks — a halyard that will not run is a boat that will not reef.
- A sheet looped round the hand or wrist — the boat can pull the sailor into the water.
- Using a halyard with a knot too big for the block — it jams under load.
Safety
Never tie the sheet fast in a small boat
A sheet made fast converts a gust into a capsize, because the sail cannot be released. Hold the sheet in the hand, or use a quick-release cleat that you have tested while the boat is moored and loaded. Never wrap rope around any part of the body.
What’s Next
- Learn next: Sail Making — the cloth these ropes control
- Combine with: Tacking & Jibing — using the sheet to change course