Build the rim of a spoked wheel from curved felloes in ash, elm or beech, each spanning two spokes: a 12-spoke wheel uses six of them, each covering 60 degrees of the circle. Bend the felloe so its grain follows the curve, or saw it to shape from wide plank and accept that the grain runs out across the wood by up to 30 degrees at the ends.
Part of Wheelwright Craft
Felloes are the curved timber segments that join end to end into the rim of a wheel, each pinned onto the ends of two or three spokes.
Bent Grain Is Stronger Than Sawn Grain
The carrier calls the felloe a curved section “forming the wheel circle”, made by steam bending. The geometry of the other route, sawing, shows why bending is better. Take a 120 cm wheel (an assumed example) with an outer radius of 60 cm and 12 spokes, so 6 felloes each covering 360° / 6 = 60°.
- Arc length on the outer face = 60 cm × (π / 3) = 62.8 cm
- Chord (straight line between the ends) = 2 × 60 × sin 30° = 60.0 cm
- Sagitta (how far the arc bulges from the chord) = 60 × (1 - cos 30°) = 60 × 0.134 = 8.0 cm
A sawn felloe cut from straight plank needs a plank at least the felloe’s depth plus 8.0 cm wide, so about 13 cm for a 5 cm deep felloe (the depth is an assumption). A straight grain line along the chord meets the curve at half the arc angle, or 30°, at each end. At that angle the fibres run out across the cut face, and the ends are where the tire presses and the joints open.
A bent felloe keeps its fibres running round the curve. Steam Bending makes the same point: a sawn curve exits the grain at the edge and is weak there. Spoked Wheels describes both methods and notes that quartersawn stock reduces the cross-grain problem in sawn felloes.
How The Spokes Sit In A Felloe
A felloe spans two spokes. If its joints lie midway between spokes, then with spokes 30° apart each joint is 15° from the nearest spoke, so the spoke holes lie at one quarter and three quarters of the felloe’s 60° arc. On the 60 cm radius that puts them 15.7 cm from each end and 31.4 cm apart. The carrier specifies round spoke tenons 2 cm in diameter and 4 cm long, so the holes are drilled 2 cm across and at least 4 cm deep.
What You Need
- Ash, elm or beech, seasoned or green for bending, per Steam Bending
- A felloe pattern cut from board at the exact arc, with the spoke hole centres marked
- A bending form (Steam Bending Felloes) or a bowsaw for the sawn route
- A brace or auger for the spoke holes
- Dowels for the joints (Jointing & Doweling)
Method: From Blank To Felloe
Step 1: Make the pattern Draw the arc on a board with a trammel (a string or stick pivoting about the centre), cut it out, and mark the spoke holes at the quarter points.
Step 2: Shape the felloe Bend it (Steam Bending Felloes) or saw it to the pattern, choosing wood whose grain follows the arc.
Step 3: Drill the spoke holes Drill after bending, at the pattern’s marks, to the angle of the spoke tenons.
Step 4: Cut the ends Cut the ends square to the arc, so that adjacent felloes meet face to face.
Step 5: Dry-fit Fit all six on the spokes before doweling, and check the circle (Jointing & Doweling).
Common Mistakes
- Cutting the felloe ends at the wrong angle — the joint opens on one side.
- Drilling before bending — the hole distorts as the piece bends.
- Marking the pattern on the wrong radius — the arc is drawn for the felloe’s outer face; a pattern drawn to the spoke ends gives a rim that is too small.
- Using a short-grain crook — grain running out at an end splits when the tire is driven.
Safety
Steam and cutting tools
The bending route involves a steam box and hot wood, and sawing a curve in a large plank involves a saw cutting toward your hand. See Steam Bending Felloes for the steam hazards and clamp the plank for sawing.
What’s Next
- Learn next: Steam Bending Felloes — making the curve
- Combine with: Jointing & Doweling — closing the circle