Most hand-tool repair comes down to four jobs in order: fix what makes the tool unsafe, such as a cracked handle, a loose head or a seized pivot, then remove rust, restore the edge and oil the steel. A loose head is more dangerous than a dull edge, so the safety repairs always come before the ones that only make the tool work better.

Repair turns a tool that passed the condition check into one that can be relied on, and the sensible order is danger first, convenience second.

Repair In The Order Of Danger, Not Of Convenience

A dull tool is dangerous because it needs excessive force and slips, and wastes calories (parent article); but a loose head is dangerous in a worse way, because it can leave the handle. So the order is: first make the tool safe to hold and swing, then make it clean, then make it sharp.

  1. Fix what can injure you: a cracked or loose handle, a mushroomed striking face, a seized pivot you would otherwise force. See Handle Replacement & Fitting and Joints, Hinges & Moving Parts.
  2. Remove rust, which also reveals cracks. See Rust Removal & Prevention.
  3. Restore the edge, where there is one. The method is on Sharpening and Tool Sharpening.
  4. Protect the result, with oil or wax, so the repair lasts.

What You Need

  • A bench or vise and a flat, heavy surface for striking.
  • Files, a wire brush, sandpaper and rags.
  • Oil or wax for protection.
  • Wood for handles, wedges and fastening wire or cord.
  • Eye protection and gloves for all of the above.

Method: Inspect, Fix Safety Faults, Clean, Sharpen, Protect

Step 1: Inspect the tool as on Assessing Tool Condition and write down each fault.

Step 2: Repair safety faults. Replace or tighten the handle. Dress a mushroomed face with a file or on a grinder, removing the spread metal until the face is flat with a slight bevel at the edge. Free the joint as on the moving-parts page.

Step 3: Clean off rust, using vinegar, abrasive paper or steel wool.

Step 4: Sharpen any cutting edge, keeping the original bevel angle.

Step 5: Coat the metal with oil or wax, and store the tool dry.

Common Mistakes

  • Sharpening first and fixing the handle never. A sharp tool with a loose head is more dangerous than a dull one.
  • Overheating while grinding. A grinder or file that turns an edge blue ruins its temper.
  • Skipping the last coat of oil. The rust returns in weeks in damp conditions.
  • Repairing a tool that failed the metal check. A cracked body cannot be fixed.

Safety

Repair work throws metal and swings heavy tools

Filing, grinding, striking and driving wedges throw metal and wood fragments at your eyes, so wear eye protection every time. Never use a cracked grinding wheel and stand to one side when starting a wheel. Do not apply a flame to parts wet with oil or solvent, and keep rags that have wiped fuel or solvent away from heat. Clamp small tools rather than holding them in your hand.

What’s Next