Earth Pigments

Finding, collecting, and processing earth pigments — the most accessible, permanent, and historically important class of pigments.

Why This Matters

Earth pigments are the oldest and most reliable colorants known to humanity. The red and yellow ochres on the cave walls of Lascaux, Altamira, and Chauvet are 15,000 to 40,000 years old and remain vibrant. No synthetic pigment can match this track record. Earth pigments are permanent, lightfast, non-toxic, chemically stable, and compatible with every binder system. They are also free — sitting in the ground, waiting to be collected.

For a rebuilding community, earth pigments are the foundation of all color work. They provide the yellows, reds, oranges, browns, and greens needed for paint, ink, dye mordants, ceramics glazes, and cosmetics. A community that identifies and processes its local earth pigments has a permanent, inexhaustible supply of colorants that require no trade, no chemistry, and no specialized equipment to produce.

The skill of reading the landscape for pigment deposits also teaches valuable geological literacy. The same iron minerals that create ochre deposits indicate soil chemistry relevant to agriculture, water quality, and mineral resources. Learning to find earth pigments is a gateway to broader geological awareness.

What Earth Pigments Are

Chemistry

Earth pigments get their color primarily from iron oxide and iron hydroxide minerals:

MineralChemical FormulaColorPigment Name
GoethiteFeOOHYellow to brownYellow ochre, raw sienna
HematiteFe2O3Red to maroonRed ochre, Indian red
LimoniteFeOOH + waterYellow-brownLimonite, raw umber
MagnetiteFe3O4BlackNatural black iron oxide
GlauconiteComplex silicateGreenGreen earth, terre verte
Manganese dioxideMnO2Brown-blackRaw umber (contributes brown)

The color of any earth pigment depends on three factors:

  1. Which iron mineral is present (goethite = yellow, hematite = red)
  2. The particle size of the mineral (finer = more vivid)
  3. What other minerals are mixed in (manganese darkens, clay lightens, silica dilutes)

The Earth Pigment Palette

PigmentColorFound As
Yellow ochreGolden yellow to mustardSoft clay deposits, stream banks
Raw siennaTransparent warm yellow-brownNamed after Siena, Italy; found widely
Red ochreWarm red to maroonExposed rock, red-stained clay
Burnt siennaRich reddish-brownCalcined raw sienna
Raw umberCool greenish-brownDeposits rich in manganese + iron
Burnt umberDeep warm brownCalcined raw umber
Green earth (terre verte)Muted olive-greenSpecific geological formations
Natural black oxideDense blackRare; found near volcanic areas

Finding Earth Pigments

Where to Look

Earth pigments concentrate where geological processes have deposited iron minerals:

River banks and stream cuts — the most productive prospecting locations. Running water erodes banks, exposing colored strata. Walk along stream banks looking for:

  • Yellow, orange, or red bands in the exposed soil profile
  • Colored sediment deposited at the waterline
  • Stained rocks and gravel

Exposed rock faces — road cuts, cliff faces, quarries, and naturally eroded slopes reveal colored mineral layers. Look for:

  • Horizontal bands of color in layered sedimentary rock
  • Red or yellow staining on rock surfaces
  • Seep points where iron-rich water emerges and deposits color

Bog and marsh edges — iron-rich water creates “bog iron” deposits that include excellent yellow and orange pigments:

  • Look for orange-brown staining in standing water
  • Iridescent oil-like films on bog water (actually iron oxide)
  • Crusty orange deposits on rocks and debris in iron-rich streams

Around springs — mineral springs often deposit colored minerals where the water surfaces. These deposits can be thick and pure.

Agricultural fields — after plowing, look for patches of strongly colored soil. Red or yellow patches in otherwise brown fields indicate concentrated iron minerals.

Prospecting Method

  1. Walk and observe — cover ground slowly, looking at every exposed earth surface
  2. Carry a knife — scrape exposed surfaces to see the true color beneath weathered crusts
  3. Finger test — rub a suspected pigment between your fingers. Good earth pigment produces a smooth, strongly colored smear. Sandy or gritty material is too dilute.
  4. Streak test — drag the material across a white surface (a piece of pottery, bone, or light stone). The streak reveals the true color.
  5. Collect samples — bring back samples from every promising location. A handful is enough to test.
  6. Map your sources — record the location of every good deposit for future harvesting

Color Variety

A single river bank may contain yellow ochre, orange ochre, red ochre, and brown umber in different strata within a few meters. Always explore the full vertical profile — do not stop at the first color you find.

Processing Earth Pigments

Step 1: Harvesting

  1. Dig or scrape raw earth from the deposit
  2. Remove obvious contaminants — roots, rocks, leaves, insects
  3. Collect more than you think you need — processing reduces volume significantly
  4. Transport in cloth bags, baskets, or ceramic containers

Step 2: Drying

  1. Spread raw earth on a clean, flat surface (a wooden board, flat stone, or cloth)
  2. Break up large lumps with your hands
  3. Dry in the sun for 1-3 days, turning occasionally
  4. Fully dry pigment is easier to grind and stores better

Step 3: Crushing

  1. Break dried lumps into coarse powder using a mortar and pestle, or by pounding in a wooden bowl
  2. Remove any remaining non-pigment debris (stones, roots, sand grains) by hand-picking or sieving

Step 4: Washing (Levigation)

This is the most important processing step. It separates fine pigment particles from coarse sand, silt, and debris:

  1. Place crushed pigment in a large container (bucket, pot, or wooden trough)
  2. Add water — approximately 5-10 times the volume of the pigment
  3. Stir vigorously for 1-2 minutes
  4. Wait 30 seconds — heavy sand and coarse particles settle to the bottom
  5. Pour off the colored water into a second container, leaving the settled coarse material behind
  6. Wait again — in the second container, let the pigment settle for 2-4 hours (or overnight for the finest fraction)
  7. Pour off clear water from the top
  8. Collect the settled pigment — this is your refined earth pigment

Grading by Particle Size

You can separate pigment into quality grades by adjusting settling time:

Settling TimeParticle GradeUse
Settles in under 30 secondsCoarse — discard or re-grindToo gritty for paint
Settles in 30 seconds - 5 minutesMedium — usable for rough paintExterior coatings, whitewash tinting
Settles in 5 minutes - 2 hoursFine — good qualityGeneral-purpose paint and ink
Settles in 2-24 hoursVery fine — premium qualityFine painting, manuscripts, calligraphy ink
Remains suspended after 24 hoursUltra-fine — highest qualityGlazing, watercolor, finest work

Step 5: Drying and Storage

  1. Spread the settled pigment on a clean surface to dry (ceramic plate, wooden board, or cloth)
  2. Dry in shade — direct sun does not damage earth pigments but may bake the surface into hard lumps
  3. Once dry, crumble any lumps and store in sealed containers
  4. Label with color, source location, and date collected
  5. Earth pigments store indefinitely — there is no shelf life

Step 6: Final Grinding (Mulling)

Before use in paint, grind the dried pigment to its final fineness:

  1. Place a small mound of dry pigment on a flat stone slab (granite, marble, or thick glass)
  2. Add a few drops of binder (gum arabic solution, oil, or egg tempera medium)
  3. Use a muller — a smooth, flat-bottomed stone that fits in your palm — to grind the pigment into the binder with firm, circular motions
  4. Continue mulling for 15-30 minutes until the mixture is perfectly smooth
  5. Test by drawing a thin stripe across a white surface — it should be even and streak-free

Modifying Earth Pigments

Calcination (Heat Treatment)

Heating earth pigments changes their color by converting iron hydroxides to iron oxides:

Starting PigmentHeat TreatmentResult
Yellow ochre300-500 C, 1-2 hoursRed ochre (warm orange-red)
Raw sienna300-500 C, 1-2 hoursBurnt sienna (rich reddish-brown)
Raw umber400-600 C, 1-2 hoursBurnt umber (deep warm brown)
Light yellow ochre200-300 C, 30 minutesDeepened to golden orange

This is the single most useful pigment modification technique. From one yellow ochre deposit, you can produce the full range from golden yellow through orange to deep red simply by controlling the calcination temperature. See Calcination for detailed process instructions.

Mixing Earth Pigments

Earth pigments mix freely with each other and with most other pigments:

MixtureResult
Yellow ochre + whiteCream, buff, light gold
Red ochre + whitePink, rose, salmon
Raw umber + whiteWarm gray, stone color
Yellow ochre + red ochreOrange, terracotta
Yellow ochre + blackOlive green
Red ochre + blackMaroon, chocolate
Raw umber + yellow ochreWarm golden brown

Enrichment

If a natural deposit is too weak (too much clay or sand, not enough iron mineral), you can concentrate it:

  1. Perform multiple rounds of levigation
  2. Each round, discard the coarse fraction (mostly sand/clay)
  3. The fine fraction becomes progressively more concentrated with iron mineral
  4. After 3-4 rounds, even a weak deposit can yield usable pigment

Earth Pigments by Color

Yellows

Yellow ochre — the most common and most useful earth pigment. Found worldwide wherever iron hydroxide (goethite) has accumulated in clay deposits. Ranges from pale lemon-yellow to deep mustard depending on iron concentration and purity. Use for: wall paint, signage, mixing with blue for green, tinting white for cream.

Reds

Red ochre — either found naturally (exposed hematite deposits) or made by calcining yellow ochre. The most permanent red pigment available without advanced chemistry. Ranges from warm orange-red to deep maroon. Use for: safety markings, decorative paint, mixing with blue for purple-brown, tinting.

Browns

Raw umber — distinguished from plain ochre by its manganese content, which gives it a cooler, greenish-brown tone. Found less commonly than ochre but still widespread. Burnt umber (calcined raw umber) is a deep, warm brown that is the standard shadowing color in painting.

Raw sienna — a particularly transparent yellow-brown ochre, prized for its glazing quality when used in thin layers over other colors.

Greens

Green earth (terre verte) — the only true green earth pigment. Colored by glauconite or celadonite minerals. Less common than ochres but found in specific geological formations (marine sedimentary deposits). A muted, olive-green that is weak in tinting strength but invaluable as a green since true green pigments are rare in nature.

Finding Green Earth

Green earth deposits are less obvious than ochres because the green color is subtle and can be mistaken for ordinary gray or dark soil. If you find a soft, slightly waxy or soapy-feeling earth with a green-gray color, test it — grind a sample with oil on a white surface. If it produces a noticeable green, you have found a valuable pigment source.

Blacks

Natural black iron oxide (magnetite) is found but is rarely pure enough for pigment use. For black pigments, carbon sources (lampblack, charcoal, bone black) are more practical and produce better results. See Carbon Pigments.

Quality Assessment

Test your processed earth pigments before committing them to important work:

TestGood PigmentPoor Pigment
Finger feelSilky smooth, no grittinessSandy, scratchy
Streak on white surfaceStrong, even colorWeak, streaky
Tinting strengthSmall amount visibly colors white paintNeeds large amount to show color
Drying behaviorDries to consistent colorPatchy, separates
LightfastnessNo change after weeks in sunlightFades or shifts (rare for earth pigments)
CompatibilityMixes smoothly with all bindersClumps, separates, or reacts

Earth pigments that pass these tests are ready for any application — from rough exterior house paint to fine manuscript illumination.