Felling Technique

Part of Woodworking

Felling a tree is one of the most dangerous activities in woodworking. Every step in this guide exists because someone was injured or killed when it was skipped. Learn the method, practice on small trees, and never rush.

Before You Cut

Assess the Tree

Stand back at least two tree-lengths away and study:

1. Natural lean: Where does the tree want to fall? Look at the trunk angle, crown weight distribution, and which side has more branches.
2. Dead branches: Called “widow-makers.” They shake loose during felling and fall unpredictably. Study the crown carefully.
3. Surrounding trees: Will your tree get caught in another (a “hang-up”)? Hung-up trees are among the most dangerous situations in forestry.
4. Obstacles: Buildings, fences, power lines, other people. The tree will reach farther than you think.

Plan the Fall Direction

Ideally, fell the tree in the direction of its natural lean. If you need it to fall a different direction, you must account for the lean — possible only if the lean is slight (under 5-10 degrees). Heavy leaners go where they want to go.

Plan Your Escape Route

This is not optional.

• Plan two escape routes at 45-degree angles behind the direction of fall (forming a V behind you).
• Clear these paths of brush, logs, and obstacles before you start cutting.
• When the tree begins to fall, walk (do not run) along one of these routes, angling away from the stump.
• Never retreat directly behind the tree — the butt can kick backward off the stump violently.

Escape Route Rule

Clear your escape routes BEFORE making any cuts. When a tree starts falling, you have 2-3 seconds. Tripping on a branch in that window can be fatal.

The Three-Cut System

Every properly felled tree uses three cuts: two for the notch (face cut) and one back cut.

Step 1: The Notch (Face Cut)

The notch is cut on the side facing the intended fall direction. It creates a hinge and controls the direction of fall.

Open-face notch (recommended):

• Top cut: Angled downward at approximately 70 degrees from horizontal
• Bottom cut: Angled upward at approximately 20 degrees from horizontal
• These two cuts meet at a line (the notch apex) about one-third of the way through the trunk diameter
• The opening angle between cuts is about 90 degrees (70 + 20)

Conventional notch (simpler but less control):

• Top cut: Angled downward at 45 degrees
• Bottom cut: Horizontal
• Meet at one-quarter to one-third of the trunk diameter

Notch Feature	Open-Face	Conventional
Opening angle	~90 degrees	~45 degrees
Hinge holds until	Tree reaches the ground	Tree is about halfway down
Control	Maximum	Adequate for small trees
Difficulty	Moderate	Easier
Recommended for	All trees, especially large ones	Small trees, experienced fallers

Making Clean Notch Cuts

With an axe: chop the top cut first, aiming downward. Then chop the bottom cut upward to meet it. Remove the wedge-shaped chip. With a saw: cut along your angled line carefully. The two cuts must meet cleanly — if they miss, the notch will not work properly. Recut if needed before making the back cut.

Step 2: The Back Cut

The back cut is made from the opposite side of the tree, roughly level (horizontal).

Critical rules:

• Height: The back cut must be at least 1-2 inches (2-5 cm) ABOVE the notch floor (the horizontal line of a conventional notch, or the apex of an open-face notch). This height difference creates a “step” that prevents the tree from sliding backward off the stump toward you.
• Depth: Cut toward the notch but STOP before you reach it. Leave a strip of uncut wood between the back cut and the notch. This strip is the hinge.

Step 3: The Hinge

The hinge is the strip of wood you intentionally leave between the notch and back cut. It is the single most important element of a controlled fell.

• Width: Approximately 10% of the tree’s diameter. For a 20-inch tree, leave a 2-inch hinge.
• Uniformity: The hinge must be the same thickness across its entire width. If it is thicker on one side, the tree will swing toward the thin side as it falls.
• Never cut through the hinge. If the tree does not start falling when the back cut is deep enough, use a wedge (wood or plastic, never metal with a chainsaw) driven into the back cut to push the tree over.

          FALL DIRECTION
              ↓
    ┌─────────────────────┐
    │     TOP CUT (70°)   │ ← Notch
    │    ╱                │    (face side)
    │   ╱    NOTCH        │
    │  ╱     OPENING      │
    │ ╱                   │
    │╱____________________│ ← Bottom cut (20°)
    │                     │
    │  ███ HINGE ███      │ ← 10% of diameter, uncut wood
    │                     │
    │_____________________│ ← Back cut (level, 1-2" above notch floor)
    │                     │
    │    BACK SIDE        │
    └─────────────────────┘

Using Wedges

If the tree does not begin to fall under its own weight after the back cut:

1. Drive a wedge (hardwood or plastic) into the back cut with a mallet or the back of your axe
2. Use two wedges for larger trees, placed on either side of the saw kerf
3. Tap gradually — the tree should tip slowly as the hinge bends
4. Never use a metal wedge if you are cutting with a chainsaw (chain contact with metal destroys the chain and throws sparks)

Wedges are also essential for trees that lean slightly opposite to your intended fall direction. Place them before the tree’s weight pinches your saw.

Hung-Up Trees

A tree that leans into another tree instead of falling to the ground is called a hung-up tree or “leaners.” This is one of the most dangerous situations in forestry.

Hung-Up Tree Rules

1. NEVER walk under a hung-up tree
2. NEVER fell the supporting tree to bring both down — this creates an unpredictable, multi-tree collapse
3. NEVER leave a hung-up tree and walk away — it can fall at any time
4. NEVER try to push it over by hand

Safe resolution methods:

• Lever and roll: If the tree is small enough, use a cant hook or peavey to roll the butt off the stump. As the butt moves sideways, the tree slides down the supporting tree.
• Winch: Attach a cable or rope to the butt and pull it away from the supporting tree using a winch or come-along. Stay well to the side, not in line with the tree.
• Tractor or vehicle: Pull the butt sideways with a chain. Stay far away and to the side.
• Cut the butt off: With extreme care, shorten the hung-up tree from the butt end. Each cut makes the remaining trunk shorter and lighter. Eventually it drops. This is slow but safe if you keep to the side.

Limbing

After the tree is on the ground, remove the branches (limbing).

Safety Rules for Limbing

1. Always stand on the uphill side of the log (if on a slope)
2. Never straddle the log while cutting branches
3. Work from the butt toward the top — this way branches fall away from you
4. Watch for spring-loaded branches: Branches under tension from supporting the tree’s weight can snap violently when cut. Identify which branches are under load before cutting.
5. Cut branches flush with the trunk: Stubs catch on everything when you move the log and create waste wood.

Technique

• Stand to the side of the log opposite the branch you are cutting
• For branches on the top: cut downward with a controlled axe swing or saw from the top
• For branches on the underside: roll the log first if possible, or cut carefully from the side
• Leave branches on the underside as support until you are ready to move the log — they keep it off the ground

Bucking (Crosscutting into Lengths)

Bucking means cutting the trunk into usable lengths.

Assessing Tension

Before each buck cut, determine if the log is under compression (weight pushes down) or tension (weight pulls up) at the cut point:

Log Position	Top Fibers	Bottom Fibers	Cut Order
Supported at both ends, sagging in middle	Compression	Tension	Cut from top first (1/3 depth), finish from bottom
Supported in middle, ends hanging	Tension	Compression	Cut from bottom first (1/3 depth), finish from top
Lying flat on ground	Neutral	Neutral	Cut from top, roll when saw nears ground

Cutting from the wrong side causes the log to pinch your saw blade. Cutting from the correct side allows the kerf to open as you cut.

Avoid Ground Contact

Raise the log on sacrificial crosspieces before bucking. This keeps your saw or axe out of the dirt (which destroys edges instantly) and allows clean cuts all the way through.

Safety Gear and Buddy System

Essential Gear

• Eye protection: Flying wood chips are constant
• Hearing protection: If using a chainsaw
• Hard hat: Falling branches are the leading cause of fatality
• Heavy boots: Dropped axes and rolling logs
• Gloves: Blisters from axe work are debilitating
• Leg protection/chaps: If using a chainsaw

Buddy System

Never fell trees alone. At minimum:

• One person watches the crown for falling branches and shifting lean while the other cuts
• One person is ready to call for help if injury occurs
• Both people know the escape routes
• Establish clear verbal signals: “Going down!” or “Timber!” before the final cut, “Clear!” when safe

When to Stop

• High wind: Wind gusts make fall direction unpredictable and shake loose dead branches
• Poor visibility: Dusk, heavy rain, or fog
• Fatigue: Tired woodworkers make the mistakes that cause injuries. Stop before you are exhausted, not after.

Felling Technique — At a Glance

• Assess lean, crown weight, and obstacles before cutting
• Clear two escape routes at 45 degrees behind the fall direction
• Cut the notch first (face side, 1/3 diameter deep, ~90 degree opening)
• Make the back cut level, 1-2 inches above the notch floor
• Leave a hinge (10% of diameter) — never cut through it
• Use wedges if the tree does not start falling
• Hung-up trees: never walk under, never fell the support tree, use mechanical methods
• Limb from butt to top, standing on the uphill side
• Buck with attention to tension and compression
• Never fell alone, never fell in wind, never fell when fatigued