Bee Forage Calendar

Part of Beekeeping

A colony’s survival depends on a steady supply of nectar and pollen throughout the active season. Planning year-round forage turns your landscape into a reliable food source for your bees.

Honey bees need two things from flowers: nectar (carbohydrates for energy) and pollen (protein for brood rearing). A colony consumes 200-300 pounds of nectar and 50-100 pounds of pollen per year. If the surrounding landscape provides a continuous succession of bloom from early spring through late fall, colonies thrive. If there are gaps — periods of two or more weeks without significant bloom — colonies starve, stop rearing brood, and weaken. This article covers the major nectar and pollen sources by season, how to identify and fill bloom gaps, what to plant, and how to provide supplemental feeding when nature falls short.

Understanding Bee Forage

Foraging Range

Honey bees forage within a 2-3 mile radius of their hive, covering approximately 8,000 acres. However, longer flights cost energy — a forager visiting flowers 2 miles away uses a significant portion of the nectar she collects just flying home. The most productive forage is within 1 mile.

Forage DistanceArea CoveredEfficiency
0.5 miles~500 acresExcellent — net energy gain is high
1 mile~2,000 acresGood — standard productive range
2 miles~8,000 acresModerate — bees use 30-40% of nectar for flight energy
3+ miles~18,000+ acresPoor — emergency foraging only; net gain marginal

Nectar vs. Pollen Value

Not all flowers are equally valuable. Some produce abundant nectar but little pollen; others are pollen-rich but nectar-poor. The best bee plants provide both.

Observing Returning Foragers

Watch your hive entrance to assess forage quality. Bees returning with visible pollen loads (colored balls on their hind legs) indicate good pollen sources nearby. Bees performing waggle dances on the comb just inside the entrance are reporting productive nectar sources. If few bees carry pollen and the waggle dances are lethargic, forage is poor.

Major Nectar and Pollen Sources by Season

The exact bloom dates vary by latitude, altitude, and local climate. Use this as a template and adjust for your region through direct observation over multiple years.

Early Spring (First Warm Days Through Mid-Spring)

These plants break winter’s nectar drought and provide the first pollen critical for spring brood rearing.

PlantNectarPollenBloom PeriodNotes
Willow (Salix spp.)ModerateExcellentVery earlyAmong the first to bloom; critical early pollen
Maple (Acer spp.)GoodGoodEarlyRed and silver maples bloom before leaves emerge
Dandelion (Taraxacum)GoodGoodEarly-mid springDo not mow dandelions during bloom — they are essential
Fruit trees (apple, pear, cherry, plum)ExcellentExcellentMid springMajor nectar flow; plant diverse varieties
Hawthorn (Crataegus)GoodModerateMid-late springHedgerow plant; blooms reliably

Late Spring Through Early Summer

The main buildup period when colonies expand rapidly and begin storing surplus honey.

PlantNectarPollenBloom PeriodNotes
Black locust (Robinia)ExcellentModerateLate springProduces light, premium honey; bloom lasts only 7-10 days
White clover (Trifolium repens)ExcellentGoodLate spring-summerThe classic honey plant; thrives in pastures and lawns
Raspberry/blackberry (Rubus)ExcellentGoodLate spring-early summerProduces excellent-quality honey
Tulip poplar (Liriodendron)ExcellentModerateLate springMajor nectar producer in eastern forests
Privet (Ligustrum)GoodGoodEarly summerCommon hedging plant; reliable bloom

Summer (Main Nectar Flow and Mid-Summer Gap)

Midsummer often brings the first major bloom gap as spring flowers finish and late-summer plants have not yet started. This is the critical period to plan for.

PlantNectarPollenBloom PeriodNotes
Basswood/Linden (Tilia)ExcellentModerateEarly-mid summerIntense 2-week bloom; produces water-white honey
Sweet clover (Melilotus)ExcellentGoodSummerBiennial; plant in fall for next year’s bloom
Buckwheat (Fagopyrum)ExcellentGoodMid-late summerFast-growing annual; fill the July gap
Sunflower (Helianthus)GoodExcellentMid-late summerMassive pollen production
Lavender (Lavandula)GoodModerateSummerLong bloom; excellent nectar in hot, dry conditions
Borage (Borago)ExcellentGoodSummerSelf-seeding annual; blooms continuously if watered
Mint family (bergamot, catmint, oregano)GoodGoodSummerLong bloom periods; plant in patches

The July Gap

In many temperate regions, a “nectar dearth” occurs in mid-to-late July when spring flowers are done blooming and fall flowers have not started. Colonies can starve during this period if they have no stored honey. Plant buckwheat, sunflowers, and borage specifically to fill this gap. Buckwheat can be sown in early June and will bloom 6 weeks later — precisely when it is most needed.

Late Summer Through Fall

These plants provide the last nectar flows, building winter stores and feeding the long-lived winter bees.

PlantNectarPollenBloom PeriodNotes
Goldenrod (Solidago)ExcellentExcellentLate summer-fallThe most important fall nectar source in North America
Aster (Symphyotrichum)GoodGoodFallComplements goldenrod; blooms slightly later
Sedum (Hylotelephium)GoodGoodLate summer-fallGarden perennial; reliable late nectar
Ivy (Hedera)GoodGoodFallBlooms in October in mild climates
Fall-blooming crocus (Crocus sativus)ModerateModerateLate fallVery late pollen source before winter

Identifying Bloom Gaps

Walk your property and surrounding area every two weeks during the growing season. Record what is blooming and whether bees are working it. After one full year of observation, you will have a bloom calendar specific to your location.

Look for periods of two or more weeks where few or no bee-attractive plants are flowering. These are your gaps. Common gaps include:

  1. Very early spring: Before willows and dandelions bloom — bees have been consuming stores all winter
  2. Mid-July: Between spring-blooming clovers and late-summer goldenrod
  3. Late fall: After goldenrod finishes and before winter dormancy

What to Plant

Prioritize plants that fill your identified gaps, grow well in your soil and climate, and provide additional value (food, medicine, building material, soil improvement).

Best Plants for Bee Forage by Priority

PriorityPlantTypeBloom SeasonWhy Plant It
1White cloverPerennialSpring-summerFixes nitrogen, livestock forage, excellent honey
2BuckwheatAnnualSummer (6 weeks after sowing)Gap filler, green manure, grain crop
3Fruit trees (diverse)PerennialSpringFood production + excellent bee forage
4SunflowerAnnualSummer-fallSeeds for oil/food, massive pollen
5BorageAnnual (self-sowing)SummerMedicinal herb, continuous bloomer
6PhaceliaAnnualVariable (8 weeks after sowing)Best single bee plant per acre; sow in succession
7Herbs (thyme, oregano, mint, rosemary)PerennialSummerKitchen use + long bloom periods
8GoldenrodPerennialFallUsually already present; protect from mowing
9Raspberry/blackberryPerennialEarly summerFruit production + excellent honey
10WillowTreeEarly springCritical early pollen; grows from cuttings easily

Succession Planting with Buckwheat

Buckwheat blooms 30-40 days after sowing and finishes in 3-4 weeks. Sow a patch every 3 weeks from late May through mid-July to provide continuous bloom through the summer gap. Each patch is also a green manure — mow and till it in after bloom to improve soil. A quarter acre of buckwheat produces roughly 150 pounds of honey if conditions are good.

Planting Strategy

Within 1/4 mile of hives: Plant perennial bee gardens — herbs, clover-seeded pathways, fruit trees, berry brambles. These high-value foraging areas are visited most efficiently.

Within 1 mile: Establish clover in pastures (overseed existing grass), plant hedgerows of native shrubs (hawthorn, elderberry, blackberry), and use buckwheat and phacelia as cover crops in garden rotations.

Landscape-scale: Advocate for late mowing of roadsides and field margins. A single unmowed field margin can provide more bee forage than an acre of cultivated bee garden.

Poisonous Plants to Avoid Near Apiaries

Some plants produce nectar or pollen that is toxic to bees or produces honey that is toxic to humans.

PlantRiskNotes
Rhododendron/AzaleaGrayanotoxin in nectar”Mad honey” — toxic to humans; can sicken bees in large quantities
Mountain laurel (Kalmia)GrayanotoxinSame toxin as rhododendron
Yellow jessamine (Gelsemium)Alkaloids in nectarToxic to bees and humans
California buckeye (Aesculus californica)Toxic nectar and pollenKills brood; avoid in bee yards
Oleander (Nerium)Toxic nectarAll parts of plant are toxic

Pesticide-Treated Plants

In a rebuilding scenario, pesticides may be scavenged and used without understanding their impact on pollinators. Neonicotinoid insecticides (found in treated seed, garden products, and some pet flea treatments) are lethal to bees at parts-per-billion levels. If any neighbors use pesticides, maintain a buffer of at least 2 miles or time your colony management to avoid foraging during application periods.

Supplemental Feeding

When natural forage fails — during extended dearths, droughts, or early spring before bloom begins — you must feed your colonies or they will starve.

Sugar Syrup

SeasonRatio (Sugar:Water by weight)Purpose
Spring (stimulative)1:1 (thin syrup)Mimics light nectar flow; stimulates brood rearing
Fall (stores building)2:1 (thick syrup)High sugar content for efficient storage as winter food
Emergency winterFondant or dry sugarPlaced directly on top bars when syrup would add too much moisture

Making sugar syrup: Dissolve white granulated sugar in warm water. Do not boil — boiling can create hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF), which is toxic to bees. Stir until dissolved, cool, and feed using an in-hive feeder (mason jar with holes in the lid, inverted over a hole in the inner cover).

Pollen Substitute

When natural pollen is unavailable (late winter or during dearths), bees need supplemental protein to rear brood. Commercial pollen substitutes are ideal, but in their absence:

  • Collected pollen: If you installed a pollen trap during periods of abundance, frozen pollen can be fed back mixed with sugar syrup as patties
  • Soy flour substitute: Mix 3 parts soy flour with 1 part brewer’s yeast and 1 part dry milk powder. Blend with heavy sugar syrup (2:1) to form patties. Place on top bars over the brood nest
  • Pollen patties: Mix any pollen substitute powder with sugar syrup to form a stiff dough, flatten between wax paper, and place directly on the top bars

Feed Inside the Hive

Never feed sugar syrup in open containers outside the hive. Open feeding triggers robbing — strong colonies steal from weak ones, and bees from other apiaries converge on the feed. Robbing spreads disease and can destroy weak colonies. Always use in-hive feeders that only the resident colony can access.

Building a Year-Round Forage Map

Create a simple map of your property and surrounding area (within 1 mile). Mark:

  1. Existing forage sources — fruit trees, hedgerows, wildflower areas, clover fields
  2. Bloom gaps — areas and time periods where forage is thin
  3. Planting opportunities — unused corners, field margins, garden edges, cover crop areas
  4. Hazards — toxic plants, potential pesticide use areas

Update this map each year as plantings mature and as you observe what your bees actually work. A forage map combined with your hive inspection records gives you a complete picture of colony nutrition.

Summary

Year-round bee forage requires a succession of bloom from early spring willows through fall goldenrod, with deliberate plantings to fill the critical mid-summer gap. The highest-priority plants to establish are white clover (spring-summer), buckwheat (summer gap filler), and fruit trees (spring). Bees forage most efficiently within 1 mile of the hive. Supplement with sugar syrup (1:1 spring, 2:1 fall) and pollen substitute when natural forage fails. Avoid placing hives near toxic plants (rhododendron, mountain laurel) and always feed inside the hive to prevent robbing. Observe your landscape through a full annual cycle, map what blooms when, and plant to fill the gaps.