Animal Fiber

Part of Textiles and Weaving

Animal fibers — primarily wool from sheep — provide the warmest, most resilient textile material available without industrial chemistry, and proper processing from raw fleece to spinnable fiber is essential knowledge.

Animal fibers have properties that no plant fiber can match: they insulate even when wet, they resist flame, they stretch and recover without breaking, and they felt into dense weatherproof fabric. A single sheep produces 2-5 kg of raw fleece per year — enough yarn for several garments after processing. But raw fleece straight from the animal is greasy, dirty, and tangled. Turning it into smooth, spinnable fiber requires a systematic process of sorting, cleaning, and aligning that determines the quality of every textile you make from it.

Fiber Sources and Properties

Different animals produce fibers with dramatically different characteristics. Your choice of animal depends on climate, available breeds, and intended end use.

Fiber Comparison Table

Animal	Fiber Name	Staple Length	Fiber Diameter	Warmth	Durability	Felting	Availability
Sheep (fine)	Merino wool	6-10 cm	15-24 micron	Excellent	Good	High	Common
Sheep (medium)	Corriedale	10-15 cm	25-31 micron	Very good	Very good	Moderate	Common
Sheep (long)	Lincoln/Leicester	15-30 cm	33-41 micron	Good	Excellent	Low	Less common
Goat (cashmere)	Cashmere	3-9 cm	14-19 micron	Superior	Fair	Low	Rare
Goat (angora)	Mohair	10-15 cm	25-40 micron	Good	Excellent	Very low	Uncommon
Rabbit (angora)	Angora	5-12 cm	11-15 micron	Superior	Poor	Moderate	Uncommon
Alpaca	Alpaca	8-15 cm	20-30 micron	Excellent	Good	Low	Rare
Dog	Dog hair	Variable	15-75 micron	Good	Fair	Variable	Available

Sheep Wool Is the Foundation

In a rebuilding scenario, sheep wool will be your primary animal fiber. Sheep are relatively easy to keep, produce fiber annually without being killed, and their wool is the most versatile animal fiber — it felts, dyes well, insulates when wet, and comes in a usable range of qualities from a single flock. Focus on mastering wool processing first; other fibers are supplements.

Sheep Wool Processing

Shearing

Shear in spring when warmer weather makes the fleece unnecessary for the animal and the wool has grown to full staple length. Time shearing for a dry period — wet wool is difficult to process and molds quickly.

Blade shearing (hand shears): Two blades connected by a U-shaped spring, operated like large scissors. Hold the sheep firmly (seated on its rump with back against your legs is the traditional position). Begin at the belly and work upward, removing the fleece in one continuous piece if possible. Keep blades close to the skin for a clean cut — second cuts (short bits from going over the same area twice) produce unusable short fibers that create lumps in yarn.

Shearing order: Belly first (this wool is discarded — it is soiled and matted), then legs and crutch area, then up one side from belly to backbone, across the back, and down the other side. The goal is a single flat fleece that opens out like a rug.

Skirting

Immediately after shearing, spread the fleece out on a flat surface (a skirting table with a slatted top is ideal — short fibers and debris fall through the gaps). Remove and discard:

• Belly wool (heavily soiled, felted, short staple)
• Leg and crutch wool (urine-stained, matted)
• Tags (dung-encrusted locks)
• Any wool with visible burrs, seeds, or heavy vegetable matter
• Stained or discolored sections

What remains is the “fleece proper” — the shoulder, side, and back wool that represents 60-70% of the total clip by weight.

Sort as You Skirt

Different body areas produce different quality wool. The shoulder and side produce the finest, longest staple — best for next-to-skin garments. The back produces slightly coarser wool — good for outer layers and blankets. The rump and thigh produce the coarsest wool from the fleece proper — suitable for rugs, bags, and outerwear. Separating these during skirting saves time later.

Washing (Scouring)

Raw wool contains lanolin (wool grease), suint (dried sweat salts), dirt, and vegetable matter. These must be removed before carding or combing.

Hot water scouring method:

1. Fill a large vessel with water at 55-60 degrees Celsius (hot to the touch but not scalding). Hotter water risks felting the wool permanently.
2. Add a cleaning agent — wood ash lye (mild alkaline solution), soapwort decoction, or rendered soap cut into thin shavings. You need enough to break down the lanolin.
3. Submerge the wool gently. Do not agitate, wring, or rub — this causes felting. Press the wool under the surface and leave it to soak for 20-30 minutes.
4. Lift the wool out and drain. Do not squeeze.
5. Repeat with fresh hot water and soap — typically 2-3 washes are needed to remove all grease.
6. Rinse twice in clean water at the same temperature (temperature shock also causes felting).
7. Spread flat or hang in mesh bags to dry completely. Full drying may take 1-3 days depending on conditions.

The Two Felting Triggers

Wool felts (permanently tangles into a dense mat) when exposed to (1) agitation and (2) temperature change while wet. During washing, NEVER agitate the wool and NEVER change water temperature suddenly. Move the wool gently into and out of water at consistent temperature. Once felted, wool cannot be unfelted — the fiber’s surface scales lock together permanently.

Lanolin recovery: The first wash water contains dissolved lanolin, a valuable waterproofing and leather-conditioning material. Let the wash water cool — lanolin solidifies and floats to the surface. Skim it off, reheat to purify, and strain through cloth. Store in sealed containers.

Carding

Carding aligns fibers roughly parallel and blends them into a uniform mass called a rolag (from hand cards) or batt (from a drum carder). Carded fiber produces lofty, warm, slightly fuzzy yarn called woolen yarn.

Hand cards: Two rectangular paddles covered with fine wire teeth (bent wire set into leather or heavy cloth stretched over a wooden paddle). Size: approximately 20 x 10 cm working surface.

Carding technique:

1. Load a thin layer of clean wool onto one card, pulling it across the teeth.
2. Place the second card on top, teeth facing the first, and draw it across in the opposite direction. The fibers transfer between cards and become aligned.
3. Repeat 3-5 passes until fibers are evenly distributed and roughly parallel.
4. Roll the fiber off the card into a rolag — a light, fluffy cylinder ready for spinning.

Card Lightly

The most common beginner mistake is overloading the cards and pressing too hard. Use thin layers — you should see the card teeth through the fiber. Light pressure produces better fiber alignment and prevents damaging the teeth. Speed comes from practice, not force.

Combing

Combing produces smooth, dense yarn called worsted yarn by removing short fibers and aligning the remaining long fibers perfectly parallel. Combed preparation is called top or sliver.

Wool combs: Two implements with one or more rows of long, sharp steel tines (10-15 cm long) set into a wooden handle. Combs are heated before use to help fibers slide smoothly.

Combing technique:

1. Load a lock of washed wool onto one comb by pressing the cut end into the tines.
2. Swing the second comb through the fiber tips, transferring the longest fibers and leaving short fibers (noils) behind on the first comb.
3. Transfer back and forth 3-5 times. Short fibers accumulate on the combs; long fibers are pulled free as a smooth ribbon.
4. Draw off the combed fiber through a diz (a small disc with a hole) to form an even top.

Noils (the short fibers left behind) are not wasted — they can be carded and spun into woolen yarn for less demanding applications, or used as stuffing for cushions and mattresses.

Preparation	Yarn Type	Characteristics	Best For
Carded (rolag)	Woolen	Lofty, warm, fuzzy, elastic	Blankets, sweaters, hats
Combed (top)	Worsted	Smooth, strong, dense, lustrous	Warp yarn, socks, trousers

Goat Fiber Processing

Cashmere

Cashmere is the fine undercoat of certain goat breeds, grown beneath a coarser outer coat (guard hair). It is harvested in spring when the goat naturally sheds.

Harvesting: Comb the undercoat out with a wide-toothed comb during shedding season. This is time-consuming — expect 100-200 grams of raw cashmere per goat per year. Do not shear; shearing mixes guard hair with cashmere.

Dehairing: The critical step. Separate fine cashmere fibers (under 19 micron) from coarse guard hairs by hand — pick through small bunches and pull out thick hairs. This is tedious but essential. Guard hairs in finished yarn create prickly, unsatisfactory fabric.

Washing and carding: Handle cashmere even more gently than sheep wool — the fibers are shorter and finer. Wash in cooler water (45-50 degrees Celsius) with very mild soap. Card with fine-toothed cards using light pressure.

Mohair

Mohair comes from Angora goats (not to be confused with Angora rabbits). It is a long, lustrous, strong fiber sheared twice yearly.

Processing: Similar to long-staple sheep wool. Mohair has very low felting tendency, making it more forgiving during washing. Its natural luster and strength make it excellent for warp yarn. Mohair blended with sheep wool at 20-30% creates yarn that is stronger and more lustrous than pure wool while retaining wool’s warmth.

Rabbit Fiber (Angora)

Angora fiber is the finest and warmest animal fiber readily available. Angora rabbits produce 200-400 grams of fiber per year, harvested by plucking or shearing every 3-4 months.

Processing challenges: Angora fibers are extremely fine (11-15 micron) and slippery. Pure angora yarn is difficult to spin and sheds fibers continuously. Blend angora with sheep wool at 20-40% angora for a manageable spinning fiber that still provides exceptional warmth.

Angora Fiber Is Not Self-Supporting

Pure angora yarn lacks the elasticity and grip of wool. Garments made from 100% angora stretch out of shape, pill excessively, and shed fibers that can cause respiratory irritation. Always blend with wool or another fiber with more body. A 30% angora / 70% wool blend provides outstanding warmth without the handling problems.

Blending Fibers

Blending different fibers combines their properties. Blend during carding by layering different fibers on the cards together.

Blend	Ratio	Result
Wool + mohair	70/30	Stronger, more lustrous, less felting
Wool + angora	70/30	Much warmer, softer against skin
Wool + linen	60/40	Cooler, stronger, less stretchy
Wool + dog hair	50/50	Warmer, uses available material
Fine + coarse wool	As needed	Adjusts softness and cost

Raw Fleece Storage

Properly stored raw fleece remains usable for years. Improperly stored fleece is destroyed within months.

Short-term (under 6 months): Store in breathable containers — cloth bags, baskets, or paper wrapping. Never use sealed plastic — moisture trapped inside promotes mold and moth larvae thrive in the warm, moist environment.

Long-term (6 months to several years): Store washed fleece only. Pack loosely in cloth bags with dried lavender, wormwood, or cedar chips to deter moths. Store in a cool, dry, dark location with airflow. Inspect quarterly for moth damage — small holes in fleece surrounded by webbing and tiny droppings indicate infestation.

Moth Prevention

Moths lay eggs in dirty wool — lanolin and sweat residue attract them. Thoroughly washed and completely dried fleece resists moth damage far better than raw fleece. If you must store raw fleece, freeze it for 48 hours first (winter outdoor exposure works) to kill existing eggs and larvae, then store with aromatic deterrents.

Fiber Quality Assessment

Learn to evaluate fiber quality by touch and sight. This determines what each batch of fiber is suitable for.

Handle test: Roll a small sample between your fingers. Fine fiber feels smooth and silky. Coarse fiber feels scratchy or prickly. Fiber with good crimp springs back when compressed. Damaged fiber feels brittle and breaks easily.

Staple length: Pull a single lock from the fleece and measure. Longer staple (over 10 cm) is easier to spin and produces stronger yarn. Short staple (under 5 cm) requires more twist and produces weaker, fuzzier yarn.

Crimp: Fine wool has many waves per centimeter (8-12 for merino). Coarse wool has few or no waves (1-3 for longwool breeds). Higher crimp generally indicates finer fiber and more elasticity in the finished yarn.

Soundness: Gently tug a lock of wool at both ends. Sound wool stretches slightly and holds. Weak wool snaps — this indicates “tender” fleece, often caused by illness, poor nutrition, or pregnancy stress in the animal. Tender fleece breaks during carding and produces weak yarn.

Summary

Sheep wool is the primary animal fiber for a rebuilding society — it insulates when wet, resists flame, and a single sheep produces enough fiber annually for multiple garments. Processing follows a strict sequence: shear in spring, skirt the fleece immediately (removing belly, leg, and soiled wool), wash in 55-60 degree water without agitation or temperature shock (to prevent felting), then card for woolen yarn (lofty, warm) or comb for worsted yarn (smooth, strong). Goat cashmere and rabbit angora provide luxury-grade warmth but must be blended with wool (typically 70/30) for practical use. Store washed fleece in breathable containers with moth-deterring herbs. Always assess fiber quality by handle, staple length, crimp, and soundness before spinning — good fiber preparation determines the quality of every textile you produce.