Net Making

Part of Knots and Cordage

Nets multiply your food-gathering ability by working passively while you attend to other survival tasks. A single gill net can catch more fish in one night than a hook and line in a week.

Why Nets Are a Force Multiplier

A fishing line catches one fish at a time and requires your constant attention. A net works while you sleep, while you build shelter, while you process other food. In a survival situation, this passive harvesting is the difference between scraping by and building surplus.

Nets also serve beyond fishing. A properly made net can carry loads, trap small game, strain sediment from water, or become a hammock. The skill of netting — once learned — gives you a manufacturing capability that scales. You can make nets of any size, from a hand-sized scoop to a 50-foot gill net.

The core technique has not changed in 10,000 years: you tie a series of identical knots at regular intervals to create a mesh of uniform openings. Master one knot and one gauge, and you can build any net.

Materials

Cordage Selection

Material	Strength	Durability in Water	Availability
Nettle fiber	High	Good (improves wet)	Temperate forests, spring-fall
Dogbane fiber	High	Very good	Fields, roadsides
Linden/basswood inner bark	Medium	Fair	Hardwood forests
Cattail leaves	Low	Poor	Wetlands, pond edges
Sinew (animal tendon)	Very high	Fair (softens)	Any hunted animal
Salvaged string/twine	Varies	Varies	Abandoned buildings, farms

Your cordage must be strong when wet and thin enough to remain somewhat invisible to fish. Two-ply twisted cord of 1-2 mm diameter works well for most fishing nets. Thicker cord (3-4 mm) suits cargo nets and game traps.

Cordage Quantity

A net consumes enormous amounts of cordage. A simple gill net 6 feet long and 3 feet deep requires roughly 150-200 feet (45-60 m) of finished cord. Start cord production days before you plan to begin netting. Budget 3-4 hours of cordage making for every hour of netting.

The Gauge (Mesh Stick)

The gauge determines mesh size. It is a flat, smooth stick — usually 1/2 to 3 inches wide, 4-6 inches long, and 1/4 inch thick. You wrap cord around it to ensure every mesh opening is identical.

Choosing gauge width by target:

Target Species	Gauge Width	Mesh Opening
Minnows (bait)	1/2 inch (1.3 cm)	1 inch (2.5 cm)
Panfish, perch	1 inch (2.5 cm)	2 inches (5 cm)
Trout, bass	1.5 inches (3.8 cm)	3 inches (7.6 cm)
Large fish (salmon, catfish)	2.5 inches (6.4 cm)	5 inches (12.7 cm)
Small game (rabbits)	2 inches (5 cm)	4 inches (10 cm)
Cargo/carrying	2-3 inches (5-7.6 cm)	4-6 inches (10-15 cm)

The mesh opening is always twice the gauge width because the cord wraps around both sides.

The Netting Needle

A netting needle holds your working cord and passes through the mesh loops. Carve one from hardwood or bone:

1. Start with a flat piece 6-8 inches long, 3/4 inch wide, 1/4 inch thick
2. Carve a fork (open prong) at one end — a 1-inch deep notch
3. Carve a pointed tongue at the other end with a small notch to catch cord
4. Smooth all edges so cord slides freely
5. Load cord by winding in a figure-eight between the fork and tongue

If you cannot make a proper netting needle, a simple shuttle — a flat stick with notches at both ends — works, just more slowly.

The Sheet Bend Knot (Mesh Knot)

Every net is built from one knot: the sheet bend, also called the mesh knot or netter’s knot. This knot tightens under load and does not slip when correctly tied.

Tying the Mesh Knot — Step by Step

1. Hold the gauge horizontally in your left hand (reverse if left-handed)
2. Bring the working cord down in front of the gauge
3. Pass the needle up through the mesh loop above (the loop from the previous row)
4. Pull cord until the mesh loop sits snug against the top of the gauge
5. Hold the junction with your left thumb against the gauge
6. Swing the needle to the left, behind both the mesh loop cords
7. Bring the needle forward, passing between the mesh loop and your working cord
8. Pull tight — the knot cinches on the bottom of the mesh loop
9. Slide the gauge to the right to the next position and repeat

Tension Control

Every knot must be pulled to the same tension. Too loose and the mesh sags unevenly; too tight and the net cannot open properly in water. The gauge ensures consistent size, but your pull determines consistent shape. Develop a rhythm: loop, pass, cinch, slide.

Building a Complete Net

Step 1: Set Up the Header Line

Tie a taut horizontal cord between two fixed points (trees, stakes, a frame). This is your header line — the top edge of the finished net. Its length determines the net’s width.

Step 2: Cast On the First Row

Create the first row of loops by tying half hitches or lark’s head knots along the header line at intervals equal to your gauge width times two. For a 1-inch gauge, space loops every 2 inches. These foundation loops are what you build subsequent rows from.

For a 6-foot net with 2-inch mesh: cast on 36 loops.

Step 3: Work Subsequent Rows

Turn the work (or move to the other end) and net back across. Each row, you pass the needle through each loop of the previous row and tie a mesh knot. The gauge sits below the previous row, ensuring consistent depth.

Row count determines net depth:

Desired Depth	Mesh Size	Rows Needed
2 feet (60 cm)	2 inches (5 cm)	12 rows
3 feet (90 cm)	2 inches (5 cm)	18 rows
4 feet (120 cm)	3 inches (7.6 cm)	16 rows

Step 4: Finish the Bottom Edge

Run a cord through all bottom loops and tie off. This is your footer line. For a gill net, leave the bottom free or weight it lightly with small stones tied at intervals.

Step 5: Rig for Use

Gill net setup:

• Tie small floats (bark, sealed hollow reeds, carved wood) to the header line every 12-18 inches
• Tie small weights (stones wrapped in cord) to the footer line every 18-24 inches
• The net hangs vertically in the water like a wall
• Set across current at dusk; fish swim into the mesh and are caught by their gills

Scoop/dip net:

• Bend a green sapling into a hoop (18-24 inches diameter)
• Lash the ends together and attach to a pole
• Net a small bag-shaped net onto the hoop using the same mesh knot technique

Common Mistakes and Fixes

Problem	Cause	Fix
Mesh holes uneven	Inconsistent gauge use	Keep gauge pressed flat; don’t rush
Knots slipping	Sheet bend tied backwards	The working cord must pass under itself
Net tangles constantly	Mesh too fine for material	Use stiffer cord or larger gauge
Net tears at edges	No reinforcement	Double the cord on edge meshes
Fish swim around net	Net too short or visible	Set in narrow channels; use dull-colored cord

Repair

Nets tear. Carry extra cord and your netting needle at all times. To repair:

1. Cut away damaged mesh cleanly — remove broken knots entirely
2. Tie new cord to an intact mesh knot adjacent to the hole
3. Rework the mesh through the hole using the same knot pattern
4. Tie off to an intact knot on the far side
5. Trim excess cord to 1/4 inch from knots

A well-maintained net lasts months of daily use. Dry your net after every use — cordage rots when stored wet.

Legal and Ethical Note

In a non-emergency context, gill nets are illegal in most jurisdictions because of their effectiveness. This knowledge is for genuine survival situations only.

Key Takeaways

• One knot does everything: the sheet bend (mesh knot) is the only knot you need to build any net
• The gauge controls quality: consistent mesh size is what makes a net functional rather than a tangled mess
• Plan cordage first: net making is bottlenecked by cordage supply — start making cord days in advance
• Match mesh to target: too large and prey passes through; too small and the net drags and tangles
• Maintain your nets: dry after use, repair immediately, and a single net provides food for months