Cast Net

Part of Fishing

A cast net is a circular weighted net thrown by hand that opens in the air, sinks over a school of fish, and traps them as the weights close the bottom — one of the fastest ways to catch large quantities of fish.

How a Cast Net Works

The net is circular, attached to a hand line at its center. Weights ring the outer edge. When thrown correctly, the net opens into a flat disc in the air, lands on the water surface, and sinks rapidly. The weights pull the perimeter down and inward, forming a purse that traps everything underneath. Pull the hand line to close the net and haul in your catch.

A skilled thrower can catch 5-20 fish in a single throw. In 30 minutes of active casting over a school, you can harvest more fish than a gill net catches in a full night.

The tradeoff: cast nets require skill to throw, are harder to construct than gill nets, and require you to be present and actively fishing. They’re best used when you can see fish or know exactly where they are.

Anatomy of a Cast Net

Understanding the parts before you build:

Part	Function
Hand line	5-8 meter (16-26 foot) rope attached to your wrist; used to retrieve the net
Horn (swivel point)	Central attachment where the hand line meets the net body
Net body (skirt)	Conical mesh radiating from the horn to the perimeter
Lead line	Weighted rope or line running around the outer perimeter
Weights	Evenly spaced around the perimeter; pull the net down and closed
Brails (optional)	Lines running from the horn to the lead line that close the net into a purse when pulled

Materials Required

For a net with a 2-meter (6.5 foot) radius (4 meters / 13 feet diameter when open):

• Cordage for mesh: 150-250 meters (490-820 feet) of thin, strong line. This is the most demanding part — start collecting and making cordage well in advance.
• Perimeter weight: 2-4 kg (4.5-9 lbs) total of weights evenly distributed. Stone chips, metal scraps, clay balls, or lead if available.
• Hand line: 5-8 meters of strong rope, at least 5 mm (3/16 inch) diameter.
• Shuttle and gauge: Same tools used for gill net making (see Gill Net Making).

Construction: Step by Step

Phase 1: The Net Body

Step 1. Start at the center (horn). Tie a small metal ring, bone ring, or tightly wound cordage loop — about 3 cm (1.2 inches) in diameter. This is where all lines radiate from and where the hand line attaches.

Step 2. Tie 8-12 starter lines to the ring, each about 15 cm (6 inches) long. These are your radial foundation lines.

Step 3. Begin netting in a circular pattern. Using your shuttle and a mesh gauge (3-4 cm / 1.2-1.6 inch gauge for most applications — see Mesh Size Selection), tie sheet bend knots to connect each starter line to its neighbors, working outward in concentric rings.

Step 4. As each ring grows larger in circumference, you must add new meshes (called “increases”) to keep the net lying flat. Add one new mesh for every 4-6 existing meshes in each ring. Without increases, the net will cup into a cone instead of spreading flat.

Increase Spacing

Spacing your increases unevenly creates a lopsided net that won’t open properly when thrown. Distribute increases as evenly as possible around each ring. Mark your increase points with a small knot of colored thread.

Step 5. Continue weaving outward until the net radius reaches your target size. For a practical hand-thrown net, 1.5-2.5 meters (5-8 feet) radius is the useful range. Larger nets catch more fish but are much harder to throw.

Phase 2: The Lead Line

Step 6. Thread a strong line through the outermost row of mesh around the entire perimeter. This is your lead line.

Step 7. Attach weights evenly around the lead line. Spacing depends on weight type:

Weight Type	Individual Weight	Spacing
Small stones (wrapped in mesh)	30-50 g each	Every 8-12 cm (3-5 in)
Metal scraps (bent around line)	20-40 g each	Every 8-12 cm
Clay balls (fire-hardened)	40-60 g each	Every 10-15 cm (4-6 in)
Lead strips (if available)	15-25 g each	Every 5-8 cm (2-3 in)

Total perimeter weight should be 2-4 kg (4.5-9 lbs). Too light and the net won’t sink fast enough — fish escape before it closes. Too heavy and you can’t throw it.

Phase 3: Brail Lines (Purse Closure)

Step 8. Cut 4-8 lengths of strong line, each as long as the net radius plus 30 cm. These are the brail lines.

Step 9. Tie one end of each brail to the lead line, evenly spaced around the perimeter. Run each brail up through the net body (weaving it loosely through the mesh) to the horn ring. Pass it through the ring.

Step 10. Gather all brail lines and tie them together just above the horn. When you pull the hand line, the brails pull the lead line upward and inward, closing the net into a bag that holds the fish.

Phase 4: Hand Line

Step 11. Tie the hand line to the gathered brail lines above the horn with a secure knot. The other end gets a wrist loop large enough to slide over your hand — you must be able to release the net completely during the throw while keeping the hand line attached to your wrist.

How to Throw a Cast Net

This takes practice. Expect 20-30 bad throws before you get consistent openings.

The Basic Two-Hand Throw

Step 1. Coil the hand line in your throwing hand (right hand for right-handed throwers). Loop the wrist loop over your wrist.

Step 2. Hold the net at the horn with your throwing hand. Let the net hang straight down.

Step 3. With your free hand, grab the lead line at the point nearest to you and hold it up to your throwing hand, creating a fold.

Step 4. With your free hand, grab the lead line at about one-third of the way around the perimeter. Hold this point at waist height.

Step 5. Place the nearest section of lead line in your teeth (or over your throwing-side shoulder if you prefer).

Step 6. Rotate your upper body away from the target, loading your throw. In one smooth motion, swing your body toward the target, release the net from your hands and teeth simultaneously.

Step 7. The net should rotate and open into a flat disc. It hits the water fully open, sinks, and the weights pull the edges together.

Step 8. Wait 2-3 seconds for the net to sink fully, then pull the hand line steadily. The brails close the bottom, trapping the fish.

Common Throwing Mistakes

• Net doesn’t open fully. You’re releasing parts at different times. Practice the simultaneous release.
• Net tangles in the air. The mesh is catching on the weights or on itself. Untangle and re-fold carefully before each throw.
• Net lands sideways or folded. Your rotational force is uneven. Throw with a smoother, flatter arc.
• Net hits the water too hard. You’re throwing too forcefully or too high. The net should land flat, not crash down. A softer throw with good rotation opens better.

Where and When to Throw

Best targets:

• Visible schools of fish in shallow water (you can see them from the bank)
• Fish schooling near the surface at dawn or dusk
• Baitfish schools near shore (they attract larger predators too)
• Tidal flats and shallow coastal areas at low tide
• The tail end of pools where current slows and fish gather

Approach quietly. Fish scatter at footsteps, shadows, and sudden movements. Move slowly, stay low, and throw from a stable stance.

Water depth: Cast nets work best in water 0.5-3 meters (1.5-10 feet) deep. In deeper water, the net doesn’t close fast enough and fish escape underneath.

Maintenance

• Rinse after saltwater use. Salt crystals weaken cordage and corrode metal weights.
• Dry fully before storing. Spread flat or hang from the horn.
• Check weights regularly. Lost weights create gaps where fish escape. Replace immediately.
• Repair mesh tears. A small tear becomes a large escape route quickly. Patch with sheet bend knots and matching line.
• Re-treat natural fiber nets with bark tannin every 2-3 weeks.

Key Takeaways

• Cast nets are the fastest active fishing method — 5-20 fish per throw in good conditions.
• Construction is labor-intensive (200+ meters of cordage, many hours of weaving) but the net lasts months with care.
• Even weight distribution around the perimeter is critical — uneven weights prevent the net from opening.
• Throwing skill requires practice — commit to 20-30 attempts before judging results.
• Best used when you can see fish or know their exact location — not a blind-search tool.